Showing posts with label growops. Show all posts
Showing posts with label growops. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Monday, June 3, 2013
Sunday, June 2, 2013
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
blast off!
The last couple weeks I have been trying my hand at bho. If you follow my instagram you have probably seen my finished product. I ended up doing all the strains I had available, only using sugar leaf. The shaman and pink turned out beautiful crumble that was pretty potent. the bubba as always produced a clean shatter that is rich, full bodied, and rightfully nickname "The Fear" as she definitely will put you under if you are not careful! The banana produced a charming crumble that was light in color and tasty. Her musk remained and she was smooth with a nice bright high. All in all I am pleased with the results and currently awaiting the case I ordered so I can do more. I will be sure to post as I go!
Monday, May 13, 2013
a touch of Co2
The indoor garden is a chain of networks much like the human body. If one element of that system fails or is not working at the required level, then the whole chain becomes weakened and the system can collapse. You can have as many high-quality HID light bulbs running in a room, but if the nutrient levels are too low, it will make no difference. You can use the best nutrients that money can buy, but you will just be flushing money down the drain if the pH levels are not in the ideal 5.8 to 6.5 range. The same applies to CO2-enrichment systems—if you are not ventilating the room, expelling stale air, bringing in fresh air and keeping the temperature and CO2 at a plant friendly level, you might actually be doing your plants more harm than good. This article aims to highlight and tackle the symbiotic relationship between CO2 generators and ventilation, and how they cannot truly benefit your plants in the desired way without working together in harmony.
What can CO2 do for you?
CO2 is used by plants in photosynthesis, the process through which the plant converts energy from the sun, water and CO2 into sugars and O2. The air around us contains roughly 200 to 300 ppm (or, 0.02 to 0.03%) CO2. Plants do well in this range, but we have learned that you can supercharge your garden by enriching the atmosphere in your grow room to 1,200 to 1,500 ppm (or, 0.12 to 0.15%)—however, keep in mind that anything above this can be harmful to plants and humans. When every aspect of the garden system is aligned, this CO2 enrichment has been known to double, even triple, yields.
CO2 enrichment also allows stems and branches to grow faster, often causing tremendous growth in plants during the vegetative stage. This can actually take weeks off the amount of time you would need to grow your plants before they were large enough to switch to the flowering stage. This saves you time, as well as money. You can also get more crop rotations in each year, saving you money on electricity. If you are using HID bulbs in your garden, the number of lumens and PAR watts drops off over time; however, CO2 enrichment allows you to efficiently utilize the bulbs in your growroom and get the most out of them. You might get one more crop rotation per bulb when adding CO2 to your garden then without, and that’s just money back in your pocket.
Another benefit of enriching your growing atmosphere with CO2 is that plants in this environment can handle growing at higher temperatures. In fact, they prefer it. The ideal temperature for plants in a CO2 enriched environment is roughly 85ºF. (Keep in mind, however, that fluorescent light bulbs should not be used if you’re CO2-enriching the atmosphere of your growroom. Fast growing plants require intense light to produce large yields and CO2 enrichment will only enhance the plant’s ability to absorb and assimilate PAR.) With the temperature in the room higher, metabolic rates within the plant will accelerate and growth will increase. This also means that you can run ventilation fans less. In summer months, you won’t need to run your air conditioning as high or as frequently. This can mean some big savings on your electricity bill.
Generating CO2
There are many ways of generating CO2. Some ways are easier and more reliable than others but each can be effective.
Fermentation and decomposition, like the processes used to make wine or organic compost, can be utilized to produce CO2. However, one issue with these methods is that it’s impossible to control that amount of CO2 being made—it can vary depending on certain factors, such as room temperature. Also, there is the problem of the potential odors produced by having organics decomposing in your growroom. These would attract pests.
Using dry ice is another way to enrich your growroom’s atmosphere with CO2. Dry ice is frozen CO2 that turns from a solid to gas when it comes into contact with the atmosphere, without ever becoming a liquid. The downside to using dry ice is that it is difficult to store enough of it to replenish larger growrooms. Dry ice is only practical in the smallest growrooms, and even then it can be expensive.
A CO2 emitter is a practical and cost-effective way of enriching a small, single-light room with CO2. A CO2 emitter system uses tanks of compressed CO2 and pumps it through tubing throughout your room using regulators and valves. Since CO2 is heavier than air, it is most effective when the tubing is placed along the ceiling of your room above the plants. This will allow the CO2 to fall amongst the foliage where it can be used by the plants. Also, CO2 emitter tanks can be refilled at most hydroponics retailers at an affordable cost.
CO2 generator systems are the most practical for larger scale or commercial growrooms with multiple lights. This system involves creating CO2 by burning fossil fuels, usually natural gas or liquid propane (other fuels might not be safe and can emit poisonous gas as a byproduct). The downside to using CO2 generators is that they have a pilot light burning at all times, which can be a risk. There is also heat given off as a byproduct and in rooms with multiple lights, extra heat can be an issue.
There are so many other ways to generate CO2 in your growroom. Some people use a butane lamp to add the extra CO2. There are also a number of products available at hydroponics retailers. Some create CO2 as a chemical byproduct, and there are many that are a variation or a combination of the systems mentioned above. Or, there is always the old-fashioned technique of sitting in your growroom and talking to your plants for a few hours a day.
Regulation, ventilation and circulation
There are number of reasons we need to ventilate our growrooms. If the temperature becomes too high, we need to remove the heat from the room. When there is an excess of humidity, it must be vented from the growroom to prevent things like powdery mildew from inflicting our plants. Ventilation is also needed when CO2 levels are toxic or too low. When enriching the atmosphere of your growroom with CO2, the trick is to manage all these things while keeping the CO2 in the air long enough for it to be of some benefit to your plants. With CO2 being heavier than air, you must also consider circulating it throughout the growroom. A couple well-placed oscillating fans positioned near where the CO2 is being released can do a fantastic job of circulating the CO2 and keeping it off of the floor.
As mentioned above, there really is no way of regulation how much CO2 is being produced when generating CO2 via fermentation, decomposition or dry ice. You only have control of how much is allowed to stay in the room. There are some very high-tech devices that can be used to measure CO2 levels. You can hook you fans up to a CO2 monitor specifically designed for growing and have it set to vent your room once the CO2 levels reach a stage that could be harmful for plants or humans. Alternatively, you can set up the exhaust fans to a thermostat that will vent your growroom once the room reaches a certain temperature deemed to be too high for the plants to thrive.
If you are using a CO2 generator or CO2 emitter system, you can have more control. There are some great interfacing products that can totally monitor and control the levels of CO2 being generated in the room, as well as monitoring the humidity and room temperature. They can shut off fans when CO2 is being generated, shut off CO2 generators when they hit the ideal level and then turn on fans when the room becomes excessively humid or too hot for the plants. These products can be expensive, but they offer the gardener total control of these elements and you really can’t put a price tag on that.
Garden systems are only as strong as their weakest link. CO2-enrichment is no different. If you are not using your exhaust fans properly, providing the right types and levels of nutrients, using the right spectrum and strength of lights, you will be wasting your time by enriching your growroom atmosphere with CO2. However, having all these factors dialed in and enriching your grow space with CO2 can lead to tremendous growth and yields. When gardening with CO2, the sky’s the limit.
heat
There are 3 basic ways heat transfer: Conduction, convection, and radiant.
CONDUCTION: Conduction is direct heat flow through matter.Example: Conduction of heat from the hot surface of a stove to a fry pan.
CONVECTION. Convection is the transfer of heat within the air.The heat travels upwards to the ceiling with the natural movement of the air.Example: space heaters, hair dryers.
RADIANT: Radiant is the transmission of electromagnetic rays through space. These rays have no temperature, only energy. Every material or object with temperature above absolute zero emits these rays in all directions until they're deflected or absorbed.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift too far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F will stunt a plant's growth. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures that high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
These temperature ranges will vary depending on variety and species of plant. For instance, some orchids require more than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures in order to flower.
Ideal temperature also varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. A plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the night time temperature drop no more than 15F from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorpsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be sped up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room. Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises. These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50%. This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers. The ideal temperature to achieve these results is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be sped up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift too far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F will stunt a plant's growth. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures that high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
These temperature ranges will vary depending on variety and species of plant. For instance, some orchids require more than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures in order to flower.
Ideal temperature also varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. A plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the night time temperature drop no more than 15F from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorpsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be sped up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room. Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises. These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50%. This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers. The ideal temperature to achieve these results is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be sped up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 75F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Products such as digital ballasts, exhaust fans and cutting heating mats all will help the a gardener save precious time and money. Ventilation of any garden is very important. This is especially true when the garden is indoors. Good ventilation will provide fresh air and help maintain proper temperatures. The best way to keep the air in your garden with an ideal temperature of 70F -75F is with an exhaust fan. Exhaust fans are used to remove hot, stale air from your grow space and bring in cooler air from either an adjacent room or outdoors. The proper fan for your room can exhaust your room in less than five minutes. This is essential during hot summer months when the outside temperature can cause the temperature in the grow room to rise past 90F. Your exhaust fan should be timed to turn on at least once an hour for five minutes.
An easier way to have the temperature of your room stay in the range that you want is to have your fan hooked up to a thermostat. Simple thermostats will plug right into the wall and the fan will plug into it. The thermostat will have a coil on it that will tell temperature. Place the thermostat in the room and set it to the temperature that you wish the air not to exceed. When the room reaches that temperature the thermostat will trigger the fan to come on. The fan will then exhaust the room until the thermostat reads that the grow room is no longer at that temperature.
Products such as digital ballasts, exhaust fans and cutting heating mats all will help the a gardener save precious time and money. Ventilation of any garden is very important. This is especially true when the garden is indoors. Good ventilation will provide fresh air and help maintain proper temperatures. The best way to keep the air in your garden with an ideal temperature of 70F -75F is with an exhaust fan. Exhaust fans are used to remove hot, stale air from your grow space and bring in cooler air from either an adjacent room or outdoors. The proper fan for your room can exhaust your room in less than five minutes. This is essential during hot summer months when the outside temperature can cause the temperature in the grow room to rise past 90F. Your exhaust fan should be timed to turn on at least once an hour for five minutes.
An easier way to have the temperature of your room stay in the range that you want is to have your fan hooked up to a thermostat. Simple thermostats will plug right into the wall and the fan will plug into it. The thermostat will have a coil on it that will tell temperature. Place the thermostat in the room and set it to the temperature that you wish the air not to exceed. When the room reaches that temperature the thermostat will trigger the fan to come on. The fan will then exhaust the room until the thermostat reads that the grow room is no longer at that temperature.
For gardeners who are in a tight space or are really battling heat from the lamp, an air-cooled reflector can provide some relief. Air-cooled reflectors are airtight reflectors that are run inline with a fan to take all the heat from the bulb and exhaust either back into the room or preferable out of the garden altogether. This style of reflectors not only helps to keep heat away and temperatures down but also allows for plants to be closer to the bulb than normal. This will greatly increase the efficiency of your light and should lead to greater yields come harvest time.
An oscillating fan aimed at the space between your bulbs and the canopy can be quite beneficial. Oscillating fans won’t lower the overall temperature of the garden but it will help to keep heat from building up directly around the plants. Using exhaust and oscillating fans are simple, almost foolproof ways of making sure that your indoor garden never exceeds certain temperatures. The same thing can be done for rooms that temperatures drift too low (below 62F). A space heater can be plugged into a thermostat and set to come on when your growing environment gets too cold.
An oscillating fan aimed at the space between your bulbs and the canopy can be quite beneficial. Oscillating fans won’t lower the overall temperature of the garden but it will help to keep heat from building up directly around the plants. Using exhaust and oscillating fans are simple, almost foolproof ways of making sure that your indoor garden never exceeds certain temperatures. The same thing can be done for rooms that temperatures drift too low (below 62F). A space heater can be plugged into a thermostat and set to come on when your growing environment gets too cold.
When growing indoors and using hydroponics, one should not only think about room temperature but also about the temperature of their nutrient solution, which should be between 60F- 75F. 65F is ideal because the water holds the most oxygen at this temperature. Allowing your reservoir temperature to drift below 50F or above 85F is dangerous because the risk of damaging the roots is high. To control the temperature of the nutrient solution a reservoir chiller or an aquarium (insert) heater may be used. Aquarium heaters are common for reservoirs that are sitting on cold floors, for example concrete or tiled flooring. Aquarium heaters are submersible heat elements controlled by a thermostat on it. * Safety Tip * Only plug an aquarium heater into a grounded outlet and make sure that the heater does not rest against the bottom or side of your reservoir. Also never leave an aquarium heater on outside of water because it will rapidly heat up and burn out.
High reservoir temperatures can cause the gardener many problems. This can cause water to evaporate, which concentrates the nutrient solution. High temperature also increases the possibility of water-born disease. If this is the case it may be time to invest in a reservoir chiller. Reservoir chillers cool the nutrient solution by circulating it through refrigerated coils set by a thermostat. When the temperature gets high, reservoir chillers are worth every penny.
High reservoir temperatures can cause the gardener many problems. This can cause water to evaporate, which concentrates the nutrient solution. High temperature also increases the possibility of water-born disease. If this is the case it may be time to invest in a reservoir chiller. Reservoir chillers cool the nutrient solution by circulating it through refrigerated coils set by a thermostat. When the temperature gets high, reservoir chillers are worth every penny.
Here are a few products to think of that will help keep temperatures in the grow room at their ideal level. Next time you are purchasing a ballast, or if you just want to cut down on heat, consider electronic ballasts. The conventional magnetic coil ballast is a great product and one that is tried and tested. But they do give off a fair amount of heat as a by-product of operating a lamp. Electronic ballasts work similarly to the magnetic coil variety in principal but function quite differently. Electronic ballasts give off heat but the heat given off is quite minimal compared to the heat produced by magnetic coil ballasts. Switching to an electronic ballast can allow people to grow in continued (did he mean confined?) spaces. It can also let growers who had to shut down during hotter summer months to cultivate year round.
Light movers are an excellent option for indoor growers who need to distribute the heat underneath the bulb. Light movers are also a great alternative from growers who need more evenly distributed lighting but do not want to add another lamp. By moving the lamp around the grow space, light movers help keep heat from accumulating directly under the lamp. Instead heat is spread out more evenly. This also means that lamps can be moved much closer to the tops of the plants without burning the tender leaves or delicate flowers. I have used rail light movers in the past.They are interesting to say the least and do work to ensure heat distribution. Maintenance on them is a little different and they tend to be noisy. Another time I will go into what I have tried and used over the years and what I prefer to use. Remember that light strengths (lumens) increase exponentially as it moves towards the source. A plant two feet away from its light source will only receive a quarter of the lumens that a plant one foot away will.
There are two common kinds of light movers. The first systems will consist of two or more lamps in small reflectors attached to arms that turn constantly in a circle. The other is the lights rail system, which consists of one or more lamps in reflectors constantly moving back and forth down a rail. Light movers not only provide more intense light with the lamp closer to the plants but they can provide far more even lighting. This allows three lights with a light mover to do the work of four. Another overlooked benefit of light movers is what the motor for the mover will be using around 1 amp, which is around 75watts-100watts. With 1000watts HID at 120 volts just of 9 amps, with house circuuits generally designed for 15 amps -20 amps, any way to save electricity is essential.
The sooner cuttings are established the better and this means growing roots fast. The best way to have almost any cutting root quickly is to have and maintain a bottom temperature of 80-85F. Keeping the roots 10F warmer than the air will speed up rooting on cuttings and drastically improve their survival rate. The best way to achieve this is by having a heating mat under the tray of cuttings. This can speed up rooting clones from two weeks to three days. Personally I have never used a heating mat in my own garden. I have not needed to as I am not located in an area of the country that weathers go through too many extremes, lucky me!
Light movers are an excellent option for indoor growers who need to distribute the heat underneath the bulb. Light movers are also a great alternative from growers who need more evenly distributed lighting but do not want to add another lamp. By moving the lamp around the grow space, light movers help keep heat from accumulating directly under the lamp. Instead heat is spread out more evenly. This also means that lamps can be moved much closer to the tops of the plants without burning the tender leaves or delicate flowers. I have used rail light movers in the past.They are interesting to say the least and do work to ensure heat distribution. Maintenance on them is a little different and they tend to be noisy. Another time I will go into what I have tried and used over the years and what I prefer to use. Remember that light strengths (lumens) increase exponentially as it moves towards the source. A plant two feet away from its light source will only receive a quarter of the lumens that a plant one foot away will.
There are two common kinds of light movers. The first systems will consist of two or more lamps in small reflectors attached to arms that turn constantly in a circle. The other is the lights rail system, which consists of one or more lamps in reflectors constantly moving back and forth down a rail. Light movers not only provide more intense light with the lamp closer to the plants but they can provide far more even lighting. This allows three lights with a light mover to do the work of four. Another overlooked benefit of light movers is what the motor for the mover will be using around 1 amp, which is around 75watts-100watts. With 1000watts HID at 120 volts just of 9 amps, with house circuuits generally designed for 15 amps -20 amps, any way to save electricity is essential.
The sooner cuttings are established the better and this means growing roots fast. The best way to have almost any cutting root quickly is to have and maintain a bottom temperature of 80-85F. Keeping the roots 10F warmer than the air will speed up rooting on cuttings and drastically improve their survival rate. The best way to achieve this is by having a heating mat under the tray of cuttings. This can speed up rooting clones from two weeks to three days. Personally I have never used a heating mat in my own garden. I have not needed to as I am not located in an area of the country that weathers go through too many extremes, lucky me!
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
city council
so I attended the long beach city council meeting yesterday. there the public was allowed to speak about the medical marijuana ban within the city. there were about 6 speakers who all brought up very valid points to the council many of which the council had obviously heard because they were kinda spacing and not paying much attention at one point. the mayor decided to remove himself from the meeting before this particular part of it which was very disheartening. the people put up a voter initiative together and got many many signatures to over ride the ban. yesterday the council was informed that they were being slapped with a federal law suit, to which they all sat up wide eyed asking the attorney if he had any comments and of course he had none. we'll see what happens here. hopefully the will of the people will prevail.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Friday, May 3, 2013
find a system
Which one is right for you? How do you know where to start? What do I need to consider? How big of a space do I have? How many girls will I want in that space? How many lights do I need? is my ventilation set? Do I need filters, fans, an ac? These and so many more are questions we all ask ourselves when we first start out. Heck whenever I am doing a new grow altogether. But how do you know which system to go for? There are many techniques on the market to choose from. Start with your skill set, where are you? Beginner, advanced, somewhere in between? One system might be better for an advanced grower than a beginner.
What are the different types of hydroponic systems available?
Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)
The nutrient film technique was developed in the mid 1960s in England by Dr. Allen Cooper. He was interested in building a low cost, large scale system to be used in parts of the world where soil quality is poor. NFT ensures a continuous flow of nutrient laden solution over the root system, allowing the plants to feed constantly, resulting in increased productivity and yield. NFT systems use little or no growing medium, thereby keeping operating costs down, but because of the lack of medium to act as a buffer, plants may suffer if a long-term power failure occurs. Trellising may be required when growing larger plants in NFT systems because of the lack of medium to hold the plants in place.
Ebb & Flow
An Ebb and Flow system consists of a growing bed in which individual containers filled with medium hold your plant's root systems. The growing medium also acts as a buffer, holding water and nutrients around the root system, and reducing the risk of crop loss due to power or equipment failure. The growing bed is flooded periodically to feed and water the plants and allowed to drain freely to pull oxygen into the root zone. Ebb and Flow systems' low maintenance, high productivity, and ease of use make them among the most popular hydroponic systems for not only the beginner, but for the advanced gardener as well.
Top Feed Systems (drip systems)
A top feed or drip system operates by using a pump and tubing to deliver nutrient solution to the top of the growing medium, where the solution trickles through the medium and then returns to the reservoir. Top Feed systems can use a variety of growing media and are available in a wide range of configurations. Top Feed systems are reliable, require little maintenance, and are suited for all types of plant growth.
Aeroponic Systems
Aeroponics systems use pumps and sprayers to continually spray oxygen rich nutrient solution directly onto the root systems of your plants. Aeroponic systems have shown extremely fast growth rates and clone- rooting success rates due to the large amount of diffused oxygen available in the nutrient solution. These systems successfully propagate very hard to root plants. Very little growing medium in these systems reduces operating costs.
Air Pump Systems
An Air Pump system utilizes a small air pump of the type used in an aquarium to constantly circulate oxygen-rich nutrient solution through the growing medium. This method of hydroponics does supply more dissolved oxygen to the root system of the plant than other methods can, although not as much as the aeroponic method does. Air Pump systems are available in a variety of configurations and sizes.
What are the different types of hydroponic media?
Rockwool
Rockwool is a fairly recent addition to the types of growing mediums available on the market. This sterile, porous, nondegradable medium is composed primarily of granite or limestone which is melted and spun like cotton candy. Rockwool is then formed into blocks, sheets, cubes, slabs, or flocking. Rockwool absorbs moisture without holding nutrients, and even when it is completely saturated still retains 20% air for your root system.
L.E.C.A. (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate)
L.E.C.A. stone is a type of clay which is super-fired to create a porous medium. It is also heavy enough to provide secure support for your plants' root systems. This non-degradable, sterile growing medium holds moisture, has a neutral pH, and also will wick nutrient solution to the root systems of your plants. L.E.C.A. is often the growing medium of choice of novices and professionals alike because it is easy to use.
Perlite
Perlite is primarily composed of minerals subjected to intense heat which expand and become very absorbent. This material is light, has a neutral pH, excellent wicking action, and is very porous. Perlite is used in a wide variety of hydroponic systems because of its ability to hold moisture and nutrients as well as air, and also because it is very easy to use.
Coconut Fiber
An alternative to using rockwool, Coconut fiber is the first "organic" medium to offer high performance in modern hydroponic applications. Coconut fiber can also be added into soil mixtures to increase water holding capacity. Coconut fiber holds more oxygen than rockwool and is pH neutral. Available as compressed bricks, when Coconut fiber is soaked in water it expands to 6 times its compressed size. Many growers have found that a 50/50 mix of coconut fiber and L.E.C.A is the perfect organic medium.
the below photo is my 48 bucket ebb and flow system
What are the different types of hydroponic systems available?
Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)
The nutrient film technique was developed in the mid 1960s in England by Dr. Allen Cooper. He was interested in building a low cost, large scale system to be used in parts of the world where soil quality is poor. NFT ensures a continuous flow of nutrient laden solution over the root system, allowing the plants to feed constantly, resulting in increased productivity and yield. NFT systems use little or no growing medium, thereby keeping operating costs down, but because of the lack of medium to act as a buffer, plants may suffer if a long-term power failure occurs. Trellising may be required when growing larger plants in NFT systems because of the lack of medium to hold the plants in place.
Ebb & Flow
An Ebb and Flow system consists of a growing bed in which individual containers filled with medium hold your plant's root systems. The growing medium also acts as a buffer, holding water and nutrients around the root system, and reducing the risk of crop loss due to power or equipment failure. The growing bed is flooded periodically to feed and water the plants and allowed to drain freely to pull oxygen into the root zone. Ebb and Flow systems' low maintenance, high productivity, and ease of use make them among the most popular hydroponic systems for not only the beginner, but for the advanced gardener as well.
Top Feed Systems (drip systems)
A top feed or drip system operates by using a pump and tubing to deliver nutrient solution to the top of the growing medium, where the solution trickles through the medium and then returns to the reservoir. Top Feed systems can use a variety of growing media and are available in a wide range of configurations. Top Feed systems are reliable, require little maintenance, and are suited for all types of plant growth.
Aeroponic Systems
Aeroponics systems use pumps and sprayers to continually spray oxygen rich nutrient solution directly onto the root systems of your plants. Aeroponic systems have shown extremely fast growth rates and clone- rooting success rates due to the large amount of diffused oxygen available in the nutrient solution. These systems successfully propagate very hard to root plants. Very little growing medium in these systems reduces operating costs.
Air Pump Systems
An Air Pump system utilizes a small air pump of the type used in an aquarium to constantly circulate oxygen-rich nutrient solution through the growing medium. This method of hydroponics does supply more dissolved oxygen to the root system of the plant than other methods can, although not as much as the aeroponic method does. Air Pump systems are available in a variety of configurations and sizes.
What are the different types of hydroponic media?
Rockwool
Rockwool is a fairly recent addition to the types of growing mediums available on the market. This sterile, porous, nondegradable medium is composed primarily of granite or limestone which is melted and spun like cotton candy. Rockwool is then formed into blocks, sheets, cubes, slabs, or flocking. Rockwool absorbs moisture without holding nutrients, and even when it is completely saturated still retains 20% air for your root system.
L.E.C.A. (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate)
L.E.C.A. stone is a type of clay which is super-fired to create a porous medium. It is also heavy enough to provide secure support for your plants' root systems. This non-degradable, sterile growing medium holds moisture, has a neutral pH, and also will wick nutrient solution to the root systems of your plants. L.E.C.A. is often the growing medium of choice of novices and professionals alike because it is easy to use.
Perlite
Perlite is primarily composed of minerals subjected to intense heat which expand and become very absorbent. This material is light, has a neutral pH, excellent wicking action, and is very porous. Perlite is used in a wide variety of hydroponic systems because of its ability to hold moisture and nutrients as well as air, and also because it is very easy to use.
Coconut Fiber
An alternative to using rockwool, Coconut fiber is the first "organic" medium to offer high performance in modern hydroponic applications. Coconut fiber can also be added into soil mixtures to increase water holding capacity. Coconut fiber holds more oxygen than rockwool and is pH neutral. Available as compressed bricks, when Coconut fiber is soaked in water it expands to 6 times its compressed size. Many growers have found that a 50/50 mix of coconut fiber and L.E.C.A is the perfect organic medium.
the below photo is my 48 bucket ebb and flow system
tips for max yield
A few facts about PPM, TDS, EC, cF, and pH
1. Electro-Conductivity (EC) or Conductivity Factor (cF) can be expressed as either milliSiemens (mS), cF, or parts per million (PPM) 1 mS = 10cF = 700ppm.
2. The pH and electro-conductivity values specified here are given as a broad range. It should be noted that specific plant requirements will vary according to regional climatic conditions, and from season to season within that region.
3. As a general rule, plants will have a higher nutrient requirement during cooler months, and a lower requirement In the hottest months. Therefore, a stronger nutrient solution should be maintained during winter, With a weaker solution during summer when plants take up and transpire more water than nutrients.
4. KNOW YOUR CROP. Plant EC or cF may vary according to the stage of growth. For example, cucumber prefer 20cF when establishing, and 25cF after the first harvest. Between 5 and 7 weeks after first harvest, the optimum cF is 17.
5. The nutrient solution should be discarded at regular intervals. Should there be a requirement to flush the growing bed, the system should be flushed with fresh nutrients (run-to-waste) rather than water to avoid starving or stressing plant.
What is Salinity?
Salinity is a measure of how much salt is in the water.
Salinity is usually measured in parts per thousand (ppt) units. Parts per thousand is how many grams of salt are dissolved per liter of water.
Why is Salinity Important?
All plants, animals, bacteria, and algae need a certain salinity range in order to survive. Changes in salinity can kill an organism.
The salinity in the Neuse River in North Carolina, for example, can range from 0ppt to 35ppt.
1. Electro-Conductivity (EC) or Conductivity Factor (cF) can be expressed as either milliSiemens (mS), cF, or parts per million (PPM) 1 mS = 10cF = 700ppm.
2. The pH and electro-conductivity values specified here are given as a broad range. It should be noted that specific plant requirements will vary according to regional climatic conditions, and from season to season within that region.
3. As a general rule, plants will have a higher nutrient requirement during cooler months, and a lower requirement In the hottest months. Therefore, a stronger nutrient solution should be maintained during winter, With a weaker solution during summer when plants take up and transpire more water than nutrients.
4. KNOW YOUR CROP. Plant EC or cF may vary according to the stage of growth. For example, cucumber prefer 20cF when establishing, and 25cF after the first harvest. Between 5 and 7 weeks after first harvest, the optimum cF is 17.
5. The nutrient solution should be discarded at regular intervals. Should there be a requirement to flush the growing bed, the system should be flushed with fresh nutrients (run-to-waste) rather than water to avoid starving or stressing plant.
What is Salinity?
Salinity is a measure of how much salt is in the water.
Salinity is usually measured in parts per thousand (ppt) units. Parts per thousand is how many grams of salt are dissolved per liter of water.
Why is Salinity Important?
All plants, animals, bacteria, and algae need a certain salinity range in order to survive. Changes in salinity can kill an organism.
The salinity in the Neuse River in North Carolina, for example, can range from 0ppt to 35ppt.
on the subject of deficiencies
Nitrogen
(N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.
Phosphorus
(P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots. NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.
Potassium
(K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.
Magnesium
(Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.
Calcium
(Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.
Sulphur
(S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.
Iron
(Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.
Manganese
(Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.
Zinc
(Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.
Copper
(C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.
Boron
(B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in pollination and seed production.
Molybdenum
(Mo) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.
(N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.
Phosphorus
(P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots. NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.
Potassium
(K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.
Magnesium
(Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.
Calcium
(Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.
Sulphur
(S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.
Iron
(Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.
Manganese
(Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.
Zinc
(Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.
Copper
(C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.
Boron
(B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in pollination and seed production.
Molybdenum
(Mo) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.
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