big marijuana

big marijuana....$100 million...

harvesting and potency

Potency is measured by the percentage by weight of THC in a dried sample of the uppermost leaves or growing shoots until flowers appear. It shows that generally potency increases as the plant develops. Cues such as phyllotaxy changes and rate of growth are helpful indicator to changes in development and the chronological age of the plant has little significance.

The development of the cannabinoids, resin glands, and, in practical terms, the potency in the living plant is not clearly understood. It is believed for the most part, potency does not increase steadily throughout the entire plant. Rather, each plant part reaches a point of maximum potency as it individually develops. A leaf that is formed when the plant is four weeks old does not increase in potency during the rest of the season. To say that potency is increasing means that the leaves that are now forming are more potent than those previously formed.

It is believed that cannabinoid formation is very fast as each plant part forms. Once matured (for example, when a leaf is fully expanded), cannabinoids are decomposing. This is one reason why the potency can decrease as well as increase during growth, especially late in the season, after the flowers have formed. 

Leaves

The potency of each new set of leaves is higher than the last pair until a plateau is reached, usually during the middle of vegetative growth. Thereafter potency of new leaves stays about the same as in those preceding. Often there is a noticeable decline in potency just prior to flowering. Leaves that form during flowering are usually more potent than those formed during the vegetative plateau. Leaves that form after the bloom are less potent.

Of course, not all varieties or individual plants will follow this rhythm. Faster-developing plants may reach the plateau sooner, and slower plants later. Potency of plants that have a longer life cycle may stay at the vegetative plateau for several months. Some plants do not seem to experience any drop in potency before flowering. Potency of these plants continues to increase gradually after the initial quick increase during early vegetative growth.

Whenever you harvest green leaves during growth, you should always take the uppermost leaves, since these are the most potent. Also, the smaller leaves that form on the branches are more potent than the large leaves on the main stem. These large stem leaves (fan, shade, or sun leaves) are often the first leaves that growers pick. But these are the least potent of all leaves, and the may not get you high at all. As long as these leaves are healthy and green, let them stay on the plant for the plant's growth. Many growers simply use these leaves for mulch or compost as they die.

Don't think that you should harvest each leaf as soon as it appears; this procedure would seriously affect normal growth and result in a small harvest of buds. The potency of individual leaves does not increase during the course of the season, but the decrease in potency is not great. Some of the loss in potency may even be made up for by the loss in tissue weight that a leaf experiences as it dies. Many growers prefer to harvest leaves during growth only after they lose colour, preferring the taste of the smoke to that of green leaves.

Male Plants

Male plants usually do not have the dramatic increase in potency during flowering that the females do. Male flowers take about two weeks to mature, from the time they are first visible as tiny knob-like buds. New flowers continue to appear for several weeks.

When male flowers open and are about to release pollen, they reach their maximum potency. Since all flowers do not mature at the same time, for maximum potency the plants should be harvested after the first few flowers have opened.

Male flowers actually make up little of the total weight of the harvest, and few new leaves form once flowering begins. There is no significant loss in either potency or yield if the male is harvested before its flowers open. Once male flowers appear, there is little change in their potency. Also, once the flowers do open and release pollen, they shortly fall from the plant and are lost to the harvest.

Males should therefore be harvested before any flowers open unless you want the females to produce seeds. In a small garden, male flower clusters can be individually harvested as they mature. Most growers treat male flowers more as a novelty. Potency of male flowers is quite variable, and seldom are they as good as the female flowers. To remove male plants, cut them near the base of the stem. Don't rip them up by the roots if they are near females that will be left to grow.

Male plants normally begin to lose their vigour after the initial bloom. When the weather is mild, or the plants are indoors, they can be encouraged to bloom a second and sometimes a third time before they finally die.

Harvesting Female Buds

The decision of when to harvest females can be simplified by understanding that you want to pick the buds after they have developed fully, but before degradation processes begin to lower potency. There are two criteria you can use to tell when the plants have reached full bloom. The first is recognising the rhythm, with which the plants are blooming. A second is the condition of the flowers as judged by the health of the stigmas and the colour of the resin.

Sinsemilla

Since sinsemilla flowers are not pollinated, the flowering period may last for many weeks. The most common rhythm for sinsemilla is that plants go through a stage of rapid bud formation, and the plants do indeed bloom. This bloom often lasts four to five weeks. The bloom ends when the rate at which new flowers form noticeably declines. At his time you should be able to sense that the bloom is completed. Buds are at their peak potency about one week after flower formation slows. This is the time to harvest. True, the plant may continue to grow slowly, but the main harvest is ready and should be taken.

With sinsemilla, some marijuana varieties have an extended bloom that may last more than two months. With this rhythm, the rate at which the buds form is drawn out, and progresses at a slower but steadier pace. The point at which the bloom is essentially over may not be as obvious as in the first case. Here, use the condition of the buds to make your decision. Stigmas wither first at the base of the buds (older flowers). Those stigmas at the top of the buds (younger) will still be white and healthy, although their tips are often brown. Harvest the plants when about half the stigmas in the buds have withered. The coating of resin glands should still be clear or white, with only a few golden or browned gland heads.

A third type of flowering rhythm is sometimes seen on plants from Thai seed. Flower buds bloom and ripen at different times. These plants also have an extended flowering stage that can last for over two months. You may choose to harvest individual buds, colas, or branches as they ripen.

Seeds

If your primary interest is seeds, the plant should be harvested after the seeds have developed their mature colour. Mature seeds can be seen splitting their sheaths or bracts. When enough seeds have ripened, the plants should be harvested. If the plants are left in the ground and die, many of the seeds will fall from the plant.

For most growers, potency will be of primary interest, seeds only a secondary. With seeded marijuana, flowering is initially rapid until the plant is well-pollinated. If pollination occurs early in flowering, the plants often bloom for another week or two. Generally, you want the plants to flower for at least four weeks before picking, and usually longer, about six to seven weeks.

With seeded marijuana, the bloom is of shorter duration than with sinsemilla. Once growth slows, wait another two to three weeks before harvesting. All the seeds may not be matured, particularly at the top of the bud. But potency of the buds should be about maximum at this time.

Weather

Because of such variables as variety and growing conditions, there can be so much variation in the ripening process that no one criterion for judging when maximum potency is reached will be reliable for all cases.

Warm, sunny weather encourages rapid flowering and a long period of receptivity by the stigmas. Cool, rainy weather can wither the stigmas and dampen the vigour of the bloom.

If brief frost or long, cool rain has withered the stigmas, use the plants' growth as a guideline, because ultimately this is the most important criterion. You want the buds to reach a mature size, and to ripen for about another week. You do not want the buds to be left on the plant longer than necessary.

Ideally, harvesting should follow a period of warm, sunny weather. In northern and mountainous parts of the country, many tropical varieties will note flower until late in the season, when the weather has cooled and night-time frosts are threatening. Most mature plant can withstand mild frosts and continue to grow well if daytime temperatures are mild. In this case, let the plants mature, since formation of the buds is more important than the weather in determining potency. Watch the plants carefully, and harvest when the buds reach mature size. Marijuana killed by frost may smoke harshly, but potency does not seem affected. Well-formed buds should be picked if heavy rains are expected. Cannabinoids are not water-soluble, but gland heads will be washed away.

Barring a catastrophe, such as a long frost, death to Cannabis is usually not sudden. The plants will continue to grow, and may infact rejuvenate the next year if the stalks are left in the ground. But after the main bloom, the growth that follows is usually much less vigorous and sometimes forms abnormally. Leaves at this time are simplified, and have one blade. Later leaves are smaller, and tend to have entire margins (no serrations). Sometimes they are twisted or misshaped, as are the flowers that form along with them. This slow growth that follows the initial bloom will contribute little to the weight of the harvest. Additionally, this post-bloom growth is much less potent than the original bloom. Resin glands on these plant parts are feeble and poorly developed. When this abnormal growth forms, the time for harvesting is past.

When a plant seems to persist in growing, and you are not sure bloom is past, the best procedure to follow is to try for a double harvest.

Double Harvests

Most marijuana plants take at least five months to reach maturity. Once the plant has reached maturity, it is forming its most potent marijuana, and should not be cut down completely. You can often induce the females to flower a second (and sometimes a third) time, especially if the plants are indoors or if the weather is expected to stay mild for several more weeks.

To encourage a second bloom, first take the bulk of the harvest: all but the smallest buds, and most of the leaf. Some green leaves should be left on the plant to maintain the plant's growth. After harvesting, give the plants a thorough watering, and water with a soluble, complete fertiliser that provides a good supply of both N and P. This will encourage new growth and continued flowering.

Indoors, the best procedure is to treat the plants like a hedge. Cut all the plants back to equal heights, about two to three feet tall. Remove most of the grass, but again leave a few green leaves on the plant. Don't remove lower branches even if they are leafless, since these will sprout again. Lower the light system to the tops of the plants, and maintain the daily cycle at about 12 hours. The second crop of buds will be ready for harvest in four to eight weeks. With this system, the plants appear like dense hedges of buds. If the second crop of buds forms quickly, you should try for a third crop. Continue to fertilise the plants regularly, and watch for signs of magnesium deficiencies, which often show up when the plants have been growing for an extended time.

Double and triple harvests are one of the benefits of indoor growing. Although plants are relatively small indoors, the original harvest of buds can be triples in the next four months.

You also have the option if a perpetual operation indoors. If you are skilled you can produce up to 13 harvests in one year. 

Potency and Decomposition

It is said that when buds are picked too late, the potency may decline because of decomposition of the cannabinoids, especially THC.

Light rapidly decomposes THC into unknown products (possibly polymers (122,164)). Light also converts CBD to CBS and CBC to CBL. Air (oxygen) slowly converts THC to the less active CBN. Conversion to CBN is hastened by higher temperatures.

Degradative processes do not occur as quickly in the living plant as when the cannabinoids are purified or in solution. Resin glands seem to function well in storing the cannabinoids in dried plant material. However, Temperature would be higher, and light stronger, under full sunlight.

Studies with fresh plant material usually show negligible CBN content in fresh marijuana from immature plants. When mature buds are tested, their CBN content is generally equal to at least five percent of their THC content. When growing temperatures are higher, such as in the tropics, CBN content can account for more than 20 percent of the original THC. Even if we assume a low figure, such as five percent conversion of THC to CBN, there is actually a much greater decline in THC content because of the simultaneous degradation of THC by light.

When the slow rate at which THC oxidises to CBN is considered, five percent decomposition in a period of less than two months represents considerable exposure of the THC to air, and most of this exposure occurs in the last critical weeks when the resin glands begin to degenerate.

Stalked glands that cover the female flower bracts sometimes rupture or secrete cannabinoids through pores in the glands head. Secretion is not a continuous flow, but more of an emptying of the glands' contents. At this time, gland heads may dehisce. Also, because of their abundance and raised positions, resin glands on the female bracts are exposed to strong sunlight and possible physical damage. These conditions may explain the significant decline in potency of buds that are overripe.

Leaves are also affected by decomposition of the cannabinoids, but not as quickly or seriously as the buds, probably because the resin glands on the leaves are most numerous on the undersurface, where they are somewhat protected from light. These glands rarely rupture or secrete cannabinoids. Often they are intact, clear, and apparently unchanged for many weeks on the living plant.

As the plates show, one can, with the naked eye, see the glands change colour, from colourless or white to golden, and then to reddish or brown. THC is colourless. If the colour changes of the resin do indicate decomposition of THC, then decomposition in the stalked glands that cover the buds can be considerable.

Buds have been smoked that seemed to lose about half their potency when left on the plant for an additional three weeks. Colour changes are after the fact. If many of the glands are beginning to brown, the flowers should be harvested.

Timing the Harvest

Many growers will disagree on when the best time is to harvest the buds (female plants). When the plants are left in the ground, and are alive but past the main bloom, the resinous qualities of the plant may become more apparent. The bracts and tiny leaves may swell in size, and the leaves feel thicker. The coating of resin glands will change colour. Leaves often yellow and fall form the plant. Much of the green colour in the flowering buds may also be lost. Harvests of these buds more closely resembles commercial Colombian grass than typical homegrown. The resin content of the dried buds may be higher, and the grass will smoke more harshly than if the buds were younger when picked. You may prefer these qualities in your grass, and some growers insist this grass is stonier. The herb will give you the highest high when it is picked as described previously. Smoking is a personal experience, and you should try different approaches and come to your own conclusions.

The first time you grow marijuana is largely a learning experience. Most growers can't wait to start their second crop, because they are certain that they'll improve on both the quantity and the quality of their crop, and this is usually true. The wise grower will not put all his proverbial eggs in one basket. It is a good idea to monitor potency by taking samples every few days when harvest time is drawing near, just as such monitoring is for deciding when to harvest growing shoots during vegetative growth.

In any garden, some of the plants will mature sooner than others. Use the plant(s) that is earliest to mature to decide at what point in its development the plant reaches maximum potency. This finding then serves as a guide for harvesting the rest of the plants.

Try to use buds from approximately the same position on the plant each time you sample. Take only enough to make a joint or two. The more you standardise your testing (and this includes your smoking evaluation), the more accurate your results may be.

Final Harvesting

The time of harvest is a time of joy. It is also a time for caution. Unless the safety of your garden is assured, you will want to harvest quickly, quietly and as efficiently as possible. Ideally, each plant is harvested as it matures, but some of you will have to harvest all at once.

It is best to take cardboard boxes or large, sturdy bags to carry the harvest. You want to harvest the plants with as little crushing or damage to the flowers as possible.

Bring a strong knife, heavy shears, or clippers for cutting the stalks. The quickest way to harvest is to cut each plant at its base. Once the plants are on the ground, cut the stalks into manageable lengths for boxing or bagging. Separate large branches as needed for packing.

Indoor gardens have more flexibility and do not need to rush as much. You are able to harvest them as they mature and get them into manageable sizes at the cut.

The bagged or boxed material should be moved to the curing or drying area as soon as possible. If you let the plants sit in the trunk of a car or in plastic bags, they will start to ferment and small in less than a day.

start at the beginning...

Finally. 6 babies healthy, striving, clean. It took so long to get these 6. Just them and no more. the mother just wasn't strong enough if you could even have called her a mother. She was ill, so very much. I haven't pinpointed the issue but I will have a better idea once these get on father. I am hoping it was just where she came from and what she had been through before. The place I got her from wasn't so bad but I don't know at all about before that so I am just hoping she was suffering from deficiencies instead of anything major. These 6 are exceptional so I have high hopes. 

bubba blast

Today I decided to run the bubba kush (circa 1995) into bho. I acquired this strain from her original owner and have been logging her and running her ever since. she has maintained her potency and I have not allowed degeneration so she is just as she was in 1995. Each time I have run a bho I have tried a different finish. It is interesting to play around with different styles and techniques of purging. I do not own a vacuum chamber or anything but I do have a food saver and the last run I did I shoved the glass pan into a food saver bag and vacuumed and sealed it. It worked pretty well! I was surprised so I am going to be playing with that a little bit more for sure. This time I filled the tube as normal, ran two cans through it into a warm water bath, I don't allow my water to go over 195 (I use a water pot I have had for years bought from a Japanese market! It really does the job!) I am doing a warm water purge and one initial whip. The photos below are after all this. From here I will allow it to set for an hour or so then run another purge. One pan will go into the food saver bag and continue the purge in that way. the other I will slow purge with warm water as I cannot fit the glass pie pan into the bag!! I am contemplating purchasing a vacuum chamber. They aren't unreasonably priced and if I keep running this I am sure it will become imperative to the process! 

h2oooooohhhh!

I just love water extracts! I ran some bubble bags the other night, I have a 9 bag system but I really only use 5 bags. The end result this time came out beautiful! It is strong and potent, smooth and light in flavor. It isn't heavy or have that weird "all over mouth" taste some hash gets. No aftertaste and it is more potent as you sit! I enjoy water extracts a lot. Lately the request has been for the bho but playing with the bubble bags is always worth it. Consistency and patience, as with most of this field, is key!

blast off!

The last couple weeks I have been trying my hand at bho. If you follow my instagram you have probably seen my finished product. I ended up doing all the strains I had available, only using sugar leaf. The shaman and pink turned out beautiful crumble that was pretty potent. the bubba as always produced a clean shatter that is rich, full bodied, and rightfully nickname "The Fear" as she definitely will put you under if you are not careful! The banana produced a charming crumble that was light in color and tasty. Her musk remained and she was smooth with a nice bright high. All in all I am pleased with the results and currently awaiting the case I ordered so I can do more. I will be sure to post as I go! 

Houston, we have a problem....

So these were cut about 8 weeks ago. They were not doing so well when I brought them home. They didn't come from an ideal environment and their parents were never in an ideal environment that I know of. From what I understand of their lineage they should be potent and quite top shelf indeed. At the time of these photos, today, they have been in these cups for about 6 weeks. New growth comes in very nice then after a few days it starts to go downhill. I have pulled them into rehab and we shall see how they fair. Time to stop any rapid growth and allow some damage control to happen. They will probably get about a two week rehab time after which they will be transferred into their buckets. To transfer them at this time with a clear root or genetic problem would be detrimental to their rehabilitation and put them into a state of shock. Therefore, even though they were going to be transferred today, they will have to wait so as to allow root growth and repair. Please look forward to their progress! :)

A little something I forgot to add... these girls were originally from a garden that constantly used floramite. I am not sure if avid or forbid was used. floramite, avid, forbid, eagle 20 these are all fine mite treatments for your ornamental plants but for anything for human consumption I whole heartedly disagree with using them. Even if they are outside, where the sun breaks down the chemical in the plant (I am sure you can mimic the effect indoors), they still test at least 5 ppms in the finished product. As it is highly recommended you completely cover your body and wear a mask when applying these chemicals, I do not see how any sort of consumption of any product treated with them would be good for you. It is my understanding these chemicals stay in the plant material indefinitely so perhaps they also can lead to genetic disorders in the long run...? This is just speculation, of course.

a touch of Co2

The indoor garden is a chain of networks much like the human body. If one element of that system fails or is not working at the required level, then the whole chain becomes weakened and the system can collapse. You can have as many high-quality HID light bulbs running in a room, but if the nutrient levels are too low, it will make no difference. You can use the best nutrients that money can buy, but you will just be flushing money down the drain if the pH levels are not in the ideal 5.8 to 6.5 range. The same applies to CO2-enrichment systems—if you are not ventilating the room, expelling stale air, bringing in fresh air and keeping the temperature and CO2 at a plant friendly level, you might actually be doing your plants more harm than good. This article aims to highlight and tackle the symbiotic relationship between CO2 generators and ventilation, and how they cannot truly benefit your plants in the desired way without working together in harmony.

What can CO2 do for you?

CO2 is used by plants in photosynthesis, the process through which the plant converts energy from the sun, water and CO2 into sugars and O2. The air around us contains roughly 200 to 300 ppm (or, 0.02 to 0.03%) CO2. Plants do well in this range, but we have learned that you can supercharge your garden by enriching the atmosphere in your grow room to 1,200 to 1,500 ppm (or, 0.12 to 0.15%)—however, keep in mind that anything above this can be harmful to plants and humans. When every aspect of the garden system is aligned, this CO2 enrichment has been known to double, even triple, yields.

CO2 enrichment also allows stems and branches to grow faster, often causing tremendous growth in plants during the vegetative stage. This can actually take weeks off the amount of time you would need to grow your plants before they were large enough to switch to the flowering stage. This saves you time, as well as money. You can also get more crop rotations in each year, saving you money on electricity. If you are using HID bulbs in your garden, the number of lumens and PAR watts drops off over time; however, CO2 enrichment allows you to efficiently utilize the bulbs in your growroom and get the most out of them. You might get one more crop rotation per bulb when adding CO2 to your garden then without, and that’s just money back in your pocket.

Another benefit of enriching your growing atmosphere with CO2 is that plants in this environment can handle growing at higher temperatures. In fact, they prefer it. The ideal temperature for plants in a CO2 enriched environment is roughly 85ºF. (Keep in mind, however, that fluorescent light bulbs should not be used if you’re CO2-enriching the atmosphere of your growroom. Fast growing plants require intense light to produce large yields and CO2 enrichment will only enhance the plant’s ability to absorb and assimilate PAR.) With the temperature in the room higher, metabolic rates within the plant will accelerate and growth will increase. This also means that you can run ventilation fans less. In summer months, you won’t need to run your air conditioning as high or as frequently. This can mean some big savings on your electricity bill.

Generating CO2

There are many ways of generating CO2. Some ways are easier and more reliable than others but each can be effective.

Fermentation and decomposition, like the processes used to make wine or organic compost, can be utilized to produce CO2. However, one issue with these methods is that it’s impossible to control that amount of CO2 being made—it can vary depending on certain factors, such as room temperature. Also, there is the problem of the potential odors produced by having organics decomposing in your growroom. These would attract pests.

Using dry ice is another way to enrich your growroom’s atmosphere with CO2. Dry ice is frozen CO2 that turns from a solid to gas when it comes into contact with the atmosphere, without ever becoming a liquid. The downside to using dry ice is that it is difficult to store enough of it to replenish larger growrooms. Dry ice is only practical in the smallest growrooms, and even then it can be expensive.

A CO2 emitter is a practical and cost-effective way of enriching a small, single-light room with CO2. A CO2 emitter system uses tanks of compressed CO2 and pumps it through tubing throughout your room using regulators and valves. Since CO2 is heavier than air, it is most effective when the tubing is placed along the ceiling of your room above the plants. This will allow the CO2 to fall amongst the foliage where it can be used by the plants. Also, CO2 emitter tanks can be refilled at most hydroponics retailers at an affordable cost.

CO2 generator systems are the most practical for larger scale or commercial growrooms with multiple lights. This system involves creating CO2 by burning fossil fuels, usually natural gas or liquid propane (other fuels might not be safe and can emit poisonous gas as a byproduct). The downside to using CO2 generators is that they have a pilot light burning at all times, which can be a risk. There is also heat given off as a byproduct and in rooms with multiple lights, extra heat can be an issue.

There are so many other ways to generate CO2 in your growroom. Some people use a butane lamp to add the extra CO2. There are also a number of products available at hydroponics retailers. Some create CO2 as a chemical byproduct, and there are many that are a variation or a combination of the systems mentioned above. Or, there is always the old-fashioned technique of sitting in your growroom and talking to your plants for a few hours a day. 

Regulation, ventilation and circulation

There are number of reasons we need to ventilate our growrooms. If the temperature becomes too high, we need to remove the heat from the room. When there is an excess of humidity, it must be vented from the growroom to prevent things like powdery mildew from inflicting our plants. Ventilation is also needed when CO2 levels are toxic or too low. When enriching the atmosphere of your growroom with CO2, the trick is to manage all these things while keeping the CO2 in the air long enough for it to be of some benefit to your plants. With CO2 being heavier than air, you must also consider circulating it throughout the growroom. A couple well-placed oscillating fans positioned near where the CO2 is being released can do a fantastic job of circulating the CO2 and keeping it off of the floor.

As mentioned above, there really is no way of regulation how much CO2 is being produced when generating CO2 via fermentation, decomposition or dry ice. You only have control of how much is allowed to stay in the room. There are some very high-tech devices that can be used to measure CO2 levels. You can hook you fans up to a CO2 monitor specifically designed for growing and have it set to vent your room once the CO2 levels reach a stage that could be harmful for plants or humans. Alternatively, you can set up the exhaust fans to a thermostat that will vent your growroom once the room reaches a certain temperature deemed to be too high for the plants to thrive.

If you are using a CO2 generator or CO2 emitter system, you can have more control. There are some great interfacing products that can totally monitor and control the levels of CO2 being generated in the room, as well as monitoring the humidity and room temperature. They can shut off fans when CO2 is being generated, shut off CO2 generators when they hit the ideal level and then turn on fans when the room becomes excessively humid or too hot for the plants. These products can be expensive, but they offer the gardener total control of these elements and you really can’t put a price tag on that.

Garden systems are only as strong as their weakest link. CO2-enrichment is no different. If you are not using your exhaust fans properly, providing the right types and levels of nutrients, using the right spectrum and strength of lights, you will be wasting your time by enriching your growroom atmosphere with CO2. However, having all these factors dialed in and enriching your grow space with CO2 can lead to tremendous growth and yields. When gardening with CO2, the sky’s the limit.

heat

There are 3 basic ways heat transfer: Conduction, convection, and radiant. 

CONDUCTION: Conduction is direct heat flow through matter.Example: Conduction of heat from the hot surface of a stove to a fry pan. 

CONVECTION. Convection is the transfer of heat within the air.The heat travels upwards to the ceiling with the natural movement of the air.Example: space heaters, hair dryers. 

RADIANT: Radiant is the transmission of electromagnetic rays through space. These rays have no temperature, only energy. Every material or object with temperature above absolute zero emits these rays in all directions until they're deflected or absorbed.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer.  This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden.  Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift too far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F will stunt a plant's growth.  If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures that high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.          
These temperature ranges will vary depending on variety and species of plant. For instance, some orchids require more than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures in order to flower.          
Ideal temperature also varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. A plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F.  It is still recommended that the night time temperature drop no more than 15F from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorpsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F.  Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be sped up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room. Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises. These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F.  Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50%. This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root.  Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers. The ideal temperature to achieve these results is 80F.  Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F.  The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.        
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better.  If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of  80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for  bottom heat not only can rooting time be sped up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.          

On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 75F.  At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Products such as digital ballasts, exhaust fans and cutting heating mats all will help the a gardener save precious time and money. Ventilation of any garden is very important. This is especially true when the garden is indoors. Good ventilation will provide fresh air and help maintain proper temperatures.  The best way to keep the air in your garden with an ideal temperature of 70F -75F is with an exhaust fan.  Exhaust fans are used to remove hot, stale air from your grow space and bring in cooler air from either an adjacent room or outdoors. The proper fan for your room can exhaust your room in less than five minutes. This is essential during hot summer months when the outside temperature can cause the temperature in the grow room to rise past 90F. Your exhaust fan should be timed to turn on at least once an hour for five minutes.
An easier way to have the temperature of your room stay in the range that you want is to have your fan hooked up to a thermostat. Simple thermostats will plug right into the wall and the fan will plug into it.  The thermostat will have a coil on it that will tell temperature. Place the thermostat in the room and set it to the temperature that you wish the air not to exceed. When the room reaches that temperature the thermostat will trigger the fan to come on. The fan will then exhaust the room until the thermostat reads that the grow room is no longer at that temperature.              

For gardeners who are in a tight space or are really battling heat from the lamp, an air-cooled reflector can provide some relief. Air-cooled reflectors are airtight reflectors that are run inline with a fan to take all the heat from the bulb and exhaust either back into the room or preferable out of the garden altogether. This style of reflectors not only helps to keep heat away and temperatures down but also allows for plants to be closer to the bulb than normal. This will greatly increase the efficiency of your light and should lead to greater yields come harvest time.
An oscillating fan aimed at the space between your bulbs and the canopy can be quite beneficial.  Oscillating fans won’t lower the overall temperature of the garden but it will help to keep heat from building up directly around the plants. Using exhaust and oscillating fans are simple, almost foolproof ways of making sure that your indoor garden never exceeds certain temperatures. The same thing can be done for rooms that temperatures drift too low (below 62F). A space heater can be plugged into a thermostat and set to come on when your growing environment gets too cold.              

When growing indoors and using hydroponics, one should not only think about room temperature but also about the temperature of their nutrient solution, which should be between 60F- 75F.  65F is ideal because the water holds the most oxygen at this temperature. Allowing your reservoir temperature to drift below 50F or above 85F is dangerous because the risk of damaging the roots is high. To control the temperature of the nutrient solution a reservoir chiller or an aquarium (insert) heater may be used.  Aquarium heaters are common for reservoirs that are sitting on cold floors, for example concrete or tiled flooring. Aquarium heaters are submersible heat elements controlled by a thermostat on it.  * Safety Tip * Only plug an aquarium heater into a grounded outlet and make sure that the heater does not rest against the bottom or side of your reservoir. Also never leave an aquarium heater on outside of water because it will rapidly heat up and burn out.
High reservoir temperatures can cause the gardener many problems. This can cause water to evaporate, which concentrates the nutrient solution.  High temperature also increases the possibility of water-born disease.  If this is the case it may be time to invest in a reservoir chiller. Reservoir chillers cool the nutrient solution by circulating it through refrigerated coils set by a thermostat.  When the temperature gets high, reservoir chillers are worth every penny.              

Here are a few products to think of that will help keep temperatures in the grow room at their ideal level.  Next time you are purchasing a ballast, or if you just want to cut down on heat, consider electronic ballasts.  The conventional magnetic coil ballast is a great product and one that is tried and tested.  But they do give off a fair amount of heat as a by-product of operating a lamp. Electronic ballasts work similarly to the magnetic coil variety in principal but function quite differently. Electronic ballasts give off heat but the heat given off is quite minimal compared to the heat produced by magnetic coil ballasts. Switching to an electronic ballast can allow people to grow in continued (did he mean confined?) spaces. It can also let growers who had to shut down during hotter summer months to cultivate year round.
Light movers are an excellent option for indoor growers who need to distribute the heat underneath the bulb. Light movers are also a great alternative from growers who need more evenly distributed lighting but do not want to add another lamp. By moving the lamp around the grow space, light movers help keep heat from accumulating directly under the lamp. Instead heat is spread out more evenly. This also means that lamps can be moved much closer to the tops of the plants without burning the tender leaves or delicate flowers. I have used rail light movers in the past.They are interesting to say the least and do work to ensure heat distribution. Maintenance on them is a little different and they tend to be noisy. Another time I will go into what I have tried and used over the years and what I prefer to use. Remember that light strengths (lumens) increase exponentially as it moves towards the source. A plant two feet away from its light source will only receive a quarter of the lumens that a plant one foot away will.
There are two common kinds of light movers. The first systems will consist of two or more lamps in small reflectors attached to arms that turn constantly in a circle. The other is the lights rail system, which consists of one or more lamps in reflectors constantly moving back and forth down a rail. Light movers not only provide more intense light with the lamp closer to the plants but they can provide far more even lighting. This allows three lights with a light mover to do the work of four. Another overlooked benefit of light movers is what the motor for the mover will be using around 1 amp, which is around 75watts-100watts. With 1000watts HID at 120 volts just of 9 amps, with house circuuits generally designed for 15 amps -20 amps, any way to save electricity is essential.            
The sooner cuttings are established the better and this means growing roots fast. The best way to have almost any cutting root quickly is to have and maintain a bottom temperature of 80-85F. Keeping the roots 10F warmer than the air will speed up rooting on cuttings and drastically improve their survival rate. The best way to achieve this is by having a heating mat under the tray of cuttings. This can speed up rooting clones from two weeks to three days. Personally I have never used a heating mat in my own garden. I have not needed to as I am not located in an area of the country that weathers go through too many extremes, lucky me! 

you're smart... now what?

information is not knowledge, knowledge is not wisdom.... -frank zappa


what is water

city council

so I attended the long beach city council meeting yesterday. there the public was allowed to speak about the medical marijuana ban within the city. there were about 6 speakers who all brought up very valid points to the council many of which the council had obviously heard because they were kinda spacing and not paying much attention at one point. the mayor decided to remove himself from the meeting before this particular part of it which was very disheartening. the people put up a voter initiative together and got many many signatures to over ride the ban. yesterday the council was informed that they were being slapped with a federal law suit, to which they all sat up wide eyed asking the attorney if he had any comments and of course he had none. we'll see what happens here. hopefully the will of the people will prevail. 

flower room 1

flower room 1

flower room 2

flower room 2

outdoor ordinance

back up before the board

advocates are pissed

lashings

the battle of fed and state

how to end the battle

find a system

Which one is right for you? How do you know where to start? What do I need to consider? How big of a space do I have? How many girls will I want in that space? How many lights do I need? is my ventilation set? Do I need filters, fans, an ac? These and so many more are questions we all ask ourselves when we first start out. Heck whenever I am doing a new grow altogether. But how do you know which system to go for? There are many techniques on the market to choose from. Start with your skill set, where are you? Beginner, advanced, somewhere in between? One system might be better for an advanced grower than a beginner.

What are the different types of hydroponic systems available?

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)
The nutrient film technique was developed in the mid 1960s in England by Dr. Allen Cooper. He was interested in building a low cost, large scale system to be used in parts of the world where soil quality is poor. NFT ensures a continuous flow of nutrient laden solution over the root system, allowing the plants to feed constantly, resulting in increased productivity and yield. NFT systems use little or no growing medium, thereby keeping operating costs down, but because of the lack of medium to act as a buffer, plants may suffer if a long-term power failure occurs. Trellising may be required when growing larger plants in NFT systems because of the lack of medium to hold the plants in place.

Ebb & Flow
An Ebb and Flow system consists of a growing bed in which individual containers filled with medium hold your plant's root systems. The growing medium also acts as a buffer, holding water and nutrients around the root system, and reducing the risk of crop loss due to power or equipment failure. The growing bed is flooded periodically to feed and water the plants and allowed to drain freely to pull oxygen into the root zone. Ebb and Flow systems' low maintenance, high productivity, and ease of use make them among the most popular hydroponic systems for not only the beginner, but for the advanced gardener as well.


Top Feed Systems (drip systems)
A top feed or drip system operates by using a pump and tubing to deliver nutrient solution to the top of the growing medium, where the solution trickles through the medium and then returns to the reservoir. Top Feed systems can use a variety of growing media and are available in a wide range of configurations. Top Feed systems are reliable, require little maintenance, and are suited for all types of plant growth.

Aeroponic Systems
Aeroponics systems use pumps and sprayers to continually spray oxygen rich nutrient solution directly onto the root systems of your plants. Aeroponic systems have shown extremely fast growth rates and clone- rooting success rates due to the large amount of diffused oxygen available in the nutrient solution. These systems successfully propagate very hard to root plants. Very little growing medium in these systems reduces operating costs.

Air Pump Systems
An Air Pump system utilizes a small air pump of the type used in an aquarium to constantly circulate oxygen-rich nutrient solution through the growing medium. This method of hydroponics does supply more dissolved oxygen to the root system of the plant than other methods can, although not as much as the aeroponic method does. Air Pump systems are available in a variety of configurations and sizes.

What are the different types of hydroponic media?

Rockwool
Rockwool is a fairly recent addition to the types of growing mediums available on the market. This sterile, porous, nondegradable medium is composed primarily of granite or limestone which is melted and spun like cotton candy. Rockwool is then formed into blocks, sheets, cubes, slabs, or flocking. Rockwool absorbs moisture without holding nutrients, and even when it is completely saturated still retains 20% air for your root system.

L.E.C.A. (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate)
L.E.C.A. stone is a type of clay which is super-fired to create a porous medium. It is also heavy enough to provide secure support for your plants' root systems. This non-degradable, sterile growing medium holds moisture, has a neutral pH, and also will wick nutrient solution to the root systems of your plants. L.E.C.A. is often the growing medium of choice of novices and professionals alike because it is easy to use.

Perlite
Perlite is primarily composed of minerals subjected to intense heat which expand and become very absorbent. This material is light, has a neutral pH, excellent wicking action, and is very porous. Perlite is used in a wide variety of hydroponic systems because of its ability to hold moisture and nutrients as well as air, and also because it is very easy to use.

Coconut Fiber
An alternative to using rockwool, Coconut fiber is the first "organic" medium to offer high performance in modern hydroponic applications. Coconut fiber can also be added into soil mixtures to increase water holding capacity. Coconut fiber holds more oxygen than rockwool and is pH neutral. Available as compressed bricks, when Coconut fiber is soaked in water it expands to 6 times its compressed size. Many growers have found that a 50/50 mix of coconut fiber and L.E.C.A is the perfect organic medium.


the below photo is my 48 bucket ebb and flow system

tips for max yield

A few facts about PPM, TDS, EC, cF, and pH
1. Electro-Conductivity (EC) or Conductivity Factor (cF) can be expressed as either milliSiemens (mS), cF, or parts per million (PPM) 1 mS = 10cF = 700ppm.

2. The pH and electro-conductivity values specified here are given as a broad range. It should be noted that specific plant requirements will vary according to regional climatic conditions, and from season to season within that region.

3. As a general rule, plants will have a higher nutrient requirement during cooler months, and a lower requirement In the hottest months. Therefore, a stronger nutrient solution should be maintained during winter, With a weaker solution during summer when plants take up and transpire more water than nutrients.

4. KNOW YOUR CROP. Plant EC or cF may vary according to the stage of growth. For example, cucumber prefer 20cF when establishing, and 25cF after the first harvest. Between 5 and 7 weeks after first harvest, the optimum cF is 17.

5. The nutrient solution should be discarded at regular intervals. Should there be a requirement to flush the growing bed, the system should be flushed with fresh nutrients (run-to-waste) rather than water to avoid starving or stressing plant.

What is Salinity?

Salinity is a measure of how much salt is in the water.
Salinity is usually measured in parts per thousand (ppt) units. Parts per thousand is how many grams of salt are dissolved per liter of water.

Why is Salinity Important?

All plants, animals, bacteria, and algae need a certain salinity range in order to survive. Changes in salinity can kill an organism.
The salinity in the Neuse River in North Carolina, for example, can range from 0ppt to 35ppt.

on the subject of deficiencies

Nitrogen
(N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.

Phosphorus
(P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots. NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.

Potassium
(K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.

Magnesium
(Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.

Calcium
(Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.

Sulphur
(S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.

Iron
(Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.

Manganese
(Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.

Zinc
(Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.

Copper
(C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.

Boron
(B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in pollination and seed production.

Molybdenum
(Mo) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.

soil vs hydroponics

Soil is the most prevalent growing medium for plants that not only provides support, nutrients, oxygen, but also delivers water and other beneficial microorganisms to the roots. This conventional form of cultivation is still dominating major parts of the world. However, sometimes this same soil poses serious threat to your plant due to issues like pest infestation, salinity, poor drainage or wearing due to soil erosion. Poor soil fertility owing to continuous cultivation results in poor yield and reduces the quality of produce. In such circumstances, hydroponic growing is a feasible alternative for many growers.

Before you opt for hydroponics, it is important to understand as to why hydroponic growing is better and, in some cases, the only option for farming. Hydroponics means ‘water-working’ i.e. growing plants in nutrient solution, without soil. This soilless gardening technique offers plant roots the required nutrients through a nutrient solution, and roots are supported by porous material like coco peat, expanded clay, perlite etc. The environment for soil cultivation is completely different from the environment needed for hydroponic growing. Hydroponics allows the grower to cultivate plants more efficiently and productively with less labor and time even in areas where soil and climate are unfit for farming.

You can grow almost any crop of your choice during any season using hydroponics, which is not possible in soil gardening. This is because you can carry out hydroponic gardening indoors in your controlled environment of grow room supplying proper nutrients at the right growth phase, proper temperature, light, and pH. Oxygen is delivered to roots by air pumps or airstones. In hydroponics growing, you can put either liquid organic nutrients or chemical fertilizers to grow plants but they are already present in soil. Contrary to soil gardening, as the whole system is almost sterile in hydroponics, you don’t have worry constantly about pests and weeds.

Unlike traditional modes of farming, in hydroponics the initial set up for any good hydroponic system whether it is wick system, water culture, ebb and flow, drip systems, nutrient film techniques or aeroponics, is capital intensive. Yet, considering the manifold benefits of hydroponic growing, it is worth investing. You need less water compared to soil irrigation, as water is mostly recycled in hydroponics. Unlike in soil, plants grow faster, healthier, and larger in hydroponics as they do not have to spread their roots for nutrients, hence they utilize this energy for their growth. Both the methods have their own sets of pros and cons, and based on your requirement you can choose the technique which suits your requirements.

Nutrients for plants work the same as they do for people and animals, allowing them to grow, reproduce and remain healthy. While each kind of plant has specific nutrient needs, influenced by its age and stage of development, the nutrient requirements are the same, whether they're grown hydroponically or in soil. The difference between the two is how the nutrients are made available to the plants and how much energy the plant expend to find and absorb the nutrients it needs.

Macronutrients are those elements that plants require in relatively large amounts. The macronutrients are magnesium, sulfur, oxygen, phosphorous, carbon, hydrogen, potassium, calcium and nitrogen. Each supplies an important part of the plant’s overall needs, and each must be considered individually in terms of how it acts when applied to the soil or dissolved in water. Nitrogen, for example, is easily washed off of the soil during a heavy rain, especially if applied as a surface dressing to sloped yards. Phosphorous, on the other hand, binds to the soil and remains where it is put, but unless it is mixed into the soil, plants can’t access it to use it. Both are fully accessible to plants when dissolved in a hydroponic solution.

Micronutrients

Micronutrients are the essential elements that plants need only in very small quantities. These elements are cobalt, iron, chlorine, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron and copper. Micronutrients support plant growth and development, and when they're lacking, plants will show different symptoms, such as poor development, yellow leaves, dropping leaves or stunted growth. These elements must be present in the soil or hydroponic solutions in sufficient quantities for the plants to get enough to support their growth and survival, but usually that means in very small or trace amounts.

Soil

Identifying nutrients in the soil can be very difficult for the average person and generally requires a professional soil analysis. Typically, this identifies which elements are present and which are lacking, and the lab makes a fertilizer recommendation based on the results. Soil lacking in copper and calcium, for instance, must have those added for plants to grow well. Once soil amendments are added, however, it is impossible to tell if the balance is correct without getting another soil analysis. The gardener must either continually run tests or hope for the best. In most cases, soil testing takes place only if the plants aren't doing well. The problem may not be a lack of any element, but instead might be a buildup of salts or a pH that is very high or very low. Growers can correct such problems by various means depending on the specific issue, but corrections may involve tilling the soil to add the necessary amendments.

Hydroponics

The nutrient balance in a hydroponic system is under the control of the hydroponic gardener, who typically monitors various aspects of the system on a regular basis. Since the plants receive all of their nutrition from the hydroponic solution that flows directly over their roots, this system can be fixed by replacing all of the nutrient solution and starting over with freshly balanced formula. This also corrects problems with the pH balance and with the levels of salts present in the system. Difficulties can occur when nonsoluble nutrients are used or the liquid is not properly balanced. Since the plants absorb some of the nutrients from the water every day, the balance changes constantly and must be monitored frequently to be sure it still contains the essentials for the plants. Plants not receiving the correct balance of nutrients will sicken and may die quickly if balance isn’t restored.

daily dose

this site is a great one. very informative and covers a good scope of news we want to be up on! browse, learn, enjoy!

grow on

nice Seattle! :)

novel idea!

industrial hemp is a great thing...

lord ah mercy!

this is one to read! ;)

taxed!

yikes