Sunday, December 29, 2013
Life happens
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
let there be light
The problem with lumens is especially pronounced when measuring light at the far ends of the human visual response curve. Consider three lamps—red, green and blue—each emitting the same number of watts of optical energy. The red and blue lamps would have much lower lumen ratings compared to the green lamp, simply because the human visual response is very low at red and blue, and highest at green. That’s why a high lumen rating does not necessarily make a lamp better suited to growing plants. Lumens, kelvin temp, CRI, CCT, CIE Chromaticity, all these terms are standard lighting measurements that tell us how the light looks to the HUMAN EYE. These terms do not represent the quality of a light spectrum nor do they take into consideration the McCree Curve. The McCree Curve represents the average photosynthetic response of plants to light energy. The McCree Curve, also known as the Plant Sensitivity Curve, begins at 360nm and extends to 760nm. This curve can be placed over a special distribution chart to see how well a light source can affect plant growth.
Similarly, light meters that measure in “lux” tell us very little about a lamp’s plant-growing power. The light sensors in lux meters have their own spectral response curves which may over- or under-measure light at various colors. This is why lux meters usually have different settings for “sunlight,” “fluorescent” and “incandescent” lamps. Again, because lux meters are meant for measuring the amount of light usable by humans, they don’t tell us anything about how plants will respond.
Plant biologists define light in the 400nm to 700nm spectral region as “photosynthetically available radiation,” or PAR. The unit for measuring PAR, micro-mols per second (μmol/s), indicates how many photons in this spectral range fall on the plant each second. Inexpensive PAR meters use sensors that respond over 400-700nm spectrum, and have their own sensitivity curves that require different calibration for sunlight, fluorescent and HID lighting.
To properly measure the amount of energy present for photosynthesis we must use a spectroradiometer. This instrument measures energy in watts at each specific wavelength over a range of wavelengths. A spectroradiometer can provide a direct comparison of each lamp’s ability to produce light that plants can use for photosynthesis. Spectroradiometers are expensive instruments, not usually found outside laboratories. (A more common instrument called a spectrometer can show relative light output over a spectral range, but does not measure energy in watts.)
Manufacturers should publish spectroradiometric data showing the energy per wavelength produced by their lamps. This data will allow growers to accurately compare different lighting technologies—whether HPS vs. LED or different LED horticultural lights—and know how much usable light their plants will receive from each system. PAR is essentially a measure of Energy per Area (this energy is in the 400nm - 700nm range). With that said the two types of PAR readings you will see are W/m2 and µmol/m2. Working with mols because they are universal and talk about a quantity of photons reaching a particular area, while working with Watts requires you to measure the energy of the wavelengths not the actual photons. As plants absorb photons, using mols makes more sense it's just another way. PAR was derived from the McCree Curve. It is a TOTAL count of light energy (in photons) between 400nm and 700nm. The PAR measurement is fast becoming a popular metric of the growing power of a light source. However, PAR measurement has two fundamental flaws. First off, the wavelengths between 380nm to 400nm and 700nm to 780nm are excluded. Secondly, all photons are weighed equally regardless of wavelength. The McCree Curve clearly shows plants respond to energy outside the 400nm to 700nm range. Furthermore, plants respond differently to energy within the PAR range. PAR does not distinguish which photons of light are present, rather it only counts the total of photons present in those nanometers.
That being said, PAR Watts (W/m2 = J/m2s) can be directly related to PPF (µmol/m2s) by equating Joules of energy to Moles of photons and the energy given off by a single photon at a particular wavelength.
To relate PAR to PPF you factor in the amount of time in which the sample was taken (or exposed to PAR). In an ideal situation you're testing for 1s, so your PPF equal your PAR, but this may not always be the case. Be careful when reading about a lights PAR output (if a company takes a cumulative PAR reading over 10 seconds and gets 10,000 PAR they could theoretically report a PAR of 10,000 and provide no more information which would be a very misleading number. In this case your PAR was a cumulative measure of photons per area rather than accounting for the time during which the reading was taken (making a PPF reading of 1000 PAR/s). PPF is a measure of the quantity of photons moving through an area during a particular period of time, PAR is simply a measure of the photons present in a particular area, PPF is the better unit for determining light output. The Sun gives off a PAR reading of 2000 µmol/m2 (or in this situation one could say that the sun gives off a PPF reading of 2000 µmol/m2s). Be careful when lighting your grow space. If you go too far beyond 2000 µmol/m2 you will run into other issues with your plant.
It has been asked how to relate PAR/PPF to Lux/Lumen. This is not a very valid conversion. Lumen is a measure of visible light perceived by the human eye, not an actual measurement of the total visible light available, while PAR is a measurement of the total photons available. Lux to Lumen is simply taking the luminous flux (lumens; Lm) and accounting for the area it is lighting (Lm/m).
Talking about HPS or MH lights (or even CFLs) it is generally advisable to deal with the lumens/lux measurements which have become a standard. PAR of 1000 from 610 - 680 nm, the PAR rating on most standard lighting, is irrelevant until the full spectrum and wavelengths can be met. With an LED however you are only producing specific wavelengths of light. Your standard Red/Blue LED grow light is producing Red light somewhere from 630 to 660 (this is pretty standard) and your Blue light somewhere from 440 to 480 (this is pretty standard). Don't be fooled by hype on LEDs exhibiting "Multiple wavelengths!" a 3 band light system of Red/Blue/Orange produces stupendous yields. There is just simply not enough research done yet on broadband LED lights to make it worth spending the extra money when the increase in yields are not statistically significant. When buying your standard LED light these days they have a very high ratio of Red : Blue, so it is advised to pick up an additional Blue LED supplemental lighting, critical for vegetative growth and still indeed valuable during any flowering cycle.
In general use Lux reading over Lumen reading, and use PPF reading over PAR reading (although most PAR meters will give you PAR Watts, which you then simply need to convert into µmol units).
Plants cannot photosynthesize without the proper amount and type of light. A plant’s leaves act as solar collectors absorbing light energy. Photosynthesis occurs when light waves generate electrons. The electrons trigger the Chlorophyll in the plant’s leaves when combined with water to start a chemical reaction. Carbon dioxide atoms convert into starch, which produces energy for the plant, and Oxygen. Diffuse light increases plant energy production because the light bends around corners to reach the lower leaves, not just the upper canopy. The typical rating most growers are familiar with is the “lumen.” The definition of the lumen is the total light produced within the range of the human visual response. It tells us nothing about the distribution of that light energy over the spectrum, and most importantly, it doesn’t tell us how much is useful for plants.
With a majority of cases, lumens or foot candles measure light intensity. Light bulbs, grow lights, and natural light meters use these measures almost exclusively. These measures describe the wave lengths visible to the human eye. There is not a direct correlation between Lumens and the light used by plants because the human eye cannot see all light. PAR (Photosynthetic Available Radiation) light values measure the light used by plants for photosynthesis. Direct or diffuse light do not have different PAR values. This means that our eyes perceive differences in lumens between direct and diffuse light. Diffuse light appears dimmer to us even though total light transmission is not decreased.
White light comprises all colors of the rainbow. Each color in the spectrum represents a specific wave length. Of the visible spectrum, violet wave lengths are the shortest while red are the longest. Ultraviolet rays are too short for the human eye to see while infrared rays are too long. The most visible rays to humans are those in the middle of the color chart, yellow and green. In contrast, light on the opposite ends of the spectrum, blue light and red light, are generally the most productive for plants. The light that generally produces the most efficient photosynthesis extends beyond the visible spectrum on both sides of the color chart.
Illumination for plants, also known as "irradiance", is sometimes measured in PAR watts per square meter (W/m2). Another means of measuring light quantity for plant growth involves discrete units of quantum flux in the PAR region called "photons". Photon flux is commonly measured in units of micromoles per square meter per second (µmoles/m2/s), where 1 mole of photons = 6.022 x 1023 photons.
This is an objective measure since it directly indicates how much light energy is available for plants to use in photosynthesis. However, lamp manufacturers typically rate their lamps in lumens, a measure of light in the spectrum visible to humans. Moreover, most lighting engineers measure lighting levels in lumens per square meter (lux) or per square foot (foot-candles). Since the spectral sensitivities of plants and humans are quite different, there is no direct method of converting the units without evaluating the full range of spectral characteristics for a given light source.
Under controlled conditions, Initial Reference PAR Value refers to the lamp light output after 100 hours of powered operation. Due to variations in systems and service conditions (in particular the burning cycle and the operating system), actual lamp performance can vary from the Initial Reference
Bulb. Color Temp. Initial Lumens. PAR MMOLES/SEC
HPS PSL 400W Bulb 2.1K 56,500 725
HPS PSL 600W Bulb 2.1K 90,000 1100-1150
HPS PSL 750W Bulb 2.1K 104,000 1350-1415
Here is where supplemental light can help your indoor garden. Those familiar with greenhouses understand diffuse light and par ratings in such situations. Trying to replicate nature inside is the base fundamental of growing indoors but we want to take that steps farther as well by increasing the PAR value our plants are receiving on each canopy tier. Light manipulation can increase your PAR without adding bulbs. In a fully enclosed indoor garden you may want to add supplemental bulbs in addition to your main bulbs to up the PAR value for your plants, thusly allowing the lower canopy to absorb the full spectrum. Keeping your par range in accordance with your room size is key when playing with PAR as you truly do not need as high of a rating as you think you may.
Staying on top of bulb and light maintenance will keep your PAR and lumens rating within the values your plants need for proper size and shape.
Saturday, October 19, 2013
Sugar ahhhh trimmie trimmie
Monday, October 14, 2013
California Marijuana Control & Legislation Act officially filed for Nov. 2014 ballot
California Marijuana Control & Legislation Act officially filed for Nov. 2014 ballot MCLR.PDF
Sunday, August 11, 2013
What is your problem?
strain guide
There is a strain for every issue. How are you feeling? What desired effect are you looking for? What do you need relief from? Not only do you want something that will do what you need it to, you want to know where it came from, how it was cared for. These are important factors in the quality of your meds as well as how well they will perform their intended job. Keep in mind each person responds differently and what may work well for your friend might not do so well for you. If one specific strain is mentioned for a certain ailment it is not to say it will only help that ailment or that another strain will not work as well. There are many many sites out there that will name certain strains for certain ailments but really it is not that cut and dry. For instance a strain that is named to be great for anxiety may also be wonderful for depression and pain management. What it comes down to is what works best for your own chemistry. I always recommend two strains one for daytime and one for nighttime based on what the patient tells me. For a good generalization it is well to bare in mind that sativas are generally great for focus, add, autism, and depression while indicas are great for depression, pms, anxiety, insomnia, and stress. That is not to say that is all they are good for. What might work well for your friend with depression may cause your own anxiety to skyrocket and vice versa. Personally I know what works well for my needs and I only stick with one strain or one type of strain that being indicas. I always recommend that people try as many different types as they possibly can to pinpoint which will fit them best as there are thousands upon thousands of strains out there many of which perform the same function. My advice to any provider is to ask as many questions as possible. The more we know the better we can fit you with the correct meds. Don't be afraid to ask your provider questions either. A heavily chemically treated flower is not going to benefit you as well as you would like. Treatments can be overdosed and this action can dramatically decrease potency in a plant. Pests will also eat up 20-30% of your potency. It is important for you, as the consumer, to know what happened with your meds. The fact that there are so many strains out there that will perform similar functions and relief for you is a bonus. This will allow you to still maintain relief while enjoying a variety or flavors and potencies. Many people feel if the flower is not extremely potent they are not benefitting. This is not the case. Each flower is genetically written to be a certain potency, the grow can in fact produce maximum potency out of a plant but only so much as is written. This does not necessarily negate it's medicinal qualities. While a properly grown plant will of course be more enjoyable you will still get the relief you need from a piss poor one. Finding a good combination for your own chemistry and ailments, be it dry flower and concentrates or just dry flower, knowledge is power! Pay attention to how each strain you try effects you and don't toss one aside based purely off the look or smell of her. If you are looking to benefit from cbd and cbn properties I suggest you go for a concentrate. The point of extracts is to do just that. Above are a couple good sites to check out that have fairly comprehensive suggestions for different ailments.
Thursday, July 25, 2013
Which way do you want to go? Yes, which way?
Friday, July 19, 2013
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
Monday, July 15, 2013
Sunday, July 14, 2013
sweets to the sweet
Thursday, July 11, 2013
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
mobile and immobile elements
Hello, everyone! Forgive my M.I.A status for a bit as I have been under the weather. Back to the grind now so I thought I would go a little deeper into some deficiencies as well mobile and immobile elements within these ladies! I believe I touched a bit on some of these in a deficiency post a few months back yet I hope to reach a little deeper this round.
Cannabis nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.
Nutrients: Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients.
*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution.
Mobile Elements
Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.
Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.
Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients.
Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Nitrogen DeficienciesPlants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
Consumption of nitrogen from the fan leaves during the final phase of flowering causing them to yellow is completely normal.
Nitrogen Toxicity
Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.
Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate. Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Phosphorus
Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency
Severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering will cause fan leaves to turn a dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth has been mistaken by many for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.
Phosphorus (P) Toxicity
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots.
NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium. Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency (K).
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Potassium (K) Toxicity
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.
Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity. Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Magnesium
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. The veins will remain somewhat green, the leave will curl upwards as if in prayer! they pray for Mg!! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity
Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.
Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutes.
Zinc
Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.
Zinc Deficiencies
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.
Zinc Toxicity
Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.
Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Sulphur (S)
Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.
Sulphur (S) deficiency
The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Sulfur deficiencies are light green fruit or younger leaves with a lack of succulence. Elongated roots and woody stem, the upper stems purple. Although many varieties of cannabis do get purplish stems, the trait generally extends the entire length of the plant's stem, and not just near the top as in this specimen.
Sulphur Toxicity
Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Excess may cause early senescence.
Trace Elements Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.
Calcium
Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.
Calcium Deficiency
Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause root tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.
Calcium Toxicity
Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.
Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.
Iron
Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation.
Iron (Fe) deficiency
Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that caused by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.
Caused by factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage, pests, high substrate pH, or nematodes. This is easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Note that when adding iron to the solution, it is often necessary to not use fertilizer for that watering. Iron has a tendency of reacting with many of the components of fertilizer solutions, and will cause nutrient lockup to occur. Read the labels of both the iron supplement and the fertilizer you are using before you attempt to combine the two.
Iron Toxicity
Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.
Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes. Iron is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency
Manganese
Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous enzymes.
Manganese Deficiency
Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves, necrotic lesions and leaf shredding are typical symptom of this deficiency. High levels can cause uneven distribution of chlorophyll resulting in blotchy appearance. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Manganese Toxicity
Toxicity:Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.
Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown. Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Chlorine
Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.
Chlorine Deficiency
Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.
Chlorine Toxicity
Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.
Boron
Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. It is associated with pollen germination.
Boron Deficiency
Plants deficient in boron exhibit brittle abnormal growth at shoot tips and one of the earliest symptoms is failure of root tips to elongate normally. Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.
Boron Toxicity
Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward before leaves die and prematurely fall off. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.
Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in
pollination and seed production
Copper
Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction. Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.
Copper Deficiency
Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves and growth tip die-back. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Copper Toxicity
Copper is required in very small amounts and readily becomes toxic in solution culture if not carefully controlled. Excess values will induce iron deficiency. Root growth will be suppressed followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots.
Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and
causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.
Molybdenum
Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium.
Molybdenum Deficiencies
Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble nitrogen, with older leaves chlorotic with rolled margins and stunted growth.
Molybdenum Toxicity
Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so she might not be too good to smoke.
Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.
Sodium
Sodium seems to encourage crop yields and in specific cases it acts as an antidoting agent against various toxic salts. It may act as a partial substitute for potassium deficiencies. Excess may cause plant toxicity or induce deficiencies of other elements. If sodium predominates in the solution calcium and magnesium may be affected.
Silicon
Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined.
Cobalt
Cobalt is essential to many beneficial bacteria that are involved in nitrogen fixation of legumes. It is a component of vitamin B12 which is essential to most animals and possibly in plants. Reports suggest that it may be involved with enzymes needed to form aromatic compounds. Otherwise, it is not understood fully as to its benefit to plant growth, but it is considered essential to some animal health issues.
Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up. General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison. PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) . Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it. Other Things… Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could. Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2. Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine. Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean. Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites underneath. Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions. Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight. Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes. 1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading…
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8…
8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
going deeper
roots
Saturday, June 22, 2013
instabummer
Thursday, June 20, 2013
update
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
where do I start?
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
a video that works..?
So this is a little video I did. It is a little insight as to how I have started experimenting with bho. I am far from a master or anything close I am just playing around right now to see what happens when I do different things. I will post more videos now that I have my YouTube account for the nursery up and going. Videos will only be available to subscribers so feel free to join in and see the goofball I really am! I know I come off a little goofy so ya never know you just might enjoy yourself too!
Sunday, June 16, 2013
review
Pink - Shaman Genetics - goherbal! nursery
I used the square pan to run the pink. she turned out a shatter even after shoving her into the food saver bag, which seemed to speed up the process some and really isn't too bad of a technique when one is cheap like I can be sometimes. Some of her was crumbly but I dunno I think I am just not allowing it to dry enough or purging it completely...I'm just not sure so I will keep trying. The high, as expected, was just great, bright and uppie but she could easily take you under with one too many hits, even concentrated function is still possible. One or two shoots you right up there and she has nice long legs, which is something I look for in my meds. She was a little harsh which tells me she still had some moisture and I should have been more patient. She was earthy and a little piney with a sweet molasses like undertone.
Shaman - c/o Shaman Genetics - goherbal! nursery
I used the Pyrex pie pan to run the shaman. No food saver bag on this one just a few hot water bath purges and letting it sit. She came out crumbly in texture and I think I left it alone long enough to allow her to dry. Every time gets better I suppose so I can only keep trying. Trial and error. She is smooth and tasty, floral with citrus high notes. There is a flavor to her reminiscent of a Japanese fruit candy I had as a child, the jelly ones in the mini cups. The high is bright and very sativa, a giggly happy front of your head numbness almost like a headband effect. Her legs aren't bad, curvy but lasts pretty well. She has no harshness you can continuously smoke on her without hurting if you can hang with the high!